5 Things We Learned in January 2025
January was quiet and civilised compared to the looming chaos of February — which will probably be summed up in the word, ‘tariffs’.
But the post-Christmas period still held some surprises.
1. Putin banished to outer darkness
Vladimir Putin’s wine collection is no longer on display in the underground cellars at Cricova Winery in Moldova. The 75 miles of tunnels underneath the winery were carved out thanks to limestone mining, leaving behind long stretches of road. Today, visitors are ferried to tasting rooms and cellars in motor vehicles.
A number of significant figures have wine collections on display in the cellars, such as former US Secretary of State John Kerry.
The curators are more interested in the historical significance of the wines than the moral character of the collector, which is why they also display wines once owned by Stalin and even Hermann Goering.
Until recently, even Putin’s collection — given to him on his 50th birthday — was on display. But the Moldovan public has been outraged by the Russian invasion of Ukraine, and the bottles have now been sent to a storage area of the complex, along with Putin’s photograph.
2. A trade deal in the works
While European wine producers wait to hear if Trump will levy tariffs on their wine, another international wine deal is in the making. Free trade negotiations between the EU and the countries of Mercosur — Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay and Paraguay — began in 2000. After stalling, they were re-launched in 2016.
The past couple of years have seen new rounds of negotiation, and a Free Trade Agreement in the next few years now seems likely. The Mercosur area covers 260 million consumers, including in the fast-growing wine market of Brazil. Any FTA would open up new opportunities for EU winemakers, as well as guarantee them protection for their prized Geographical Indicators. In turn, wine producers from the Mercosur area, particularly Argentina, would have an easier time entering the EU.
There are a couple of sticking points, however. The biggest one is European concerns about deforestation — if producers of beef ramp up production to meet European demand, the Amazon may suffer as a consequence. The other major problem is that European farmers, already under price pressures, don’t want or need the competition.
But if the problems can be resolved in the near future, then winemakers on both sides of the ocean stand to benefit.
3. Time to talk about wine’s values
After decades of expansion, it’s clear the global wine trade is now facing the worst trading conditions in years. It’s being impacted by everything from the aging of the core Baby Boomer consumer demographic, to inflation, to Covid over-stocking, to changing habits, to the rise of the new temperance movement. According to Rob McMillan, it’s time to get creative.
“I know for a fact that when the circumstances surrounding business success change, using the same strategy will fail,” he wrote, after presenting the 2025 Silicon Valley Bank State of the Wine Industry report.
But, he says, “We are in this very strange place where consumers who we need to influence tomorrow, have values that align or should align with wine.” After all, wine is plant-based. It can also “be locally sourced, have no added sugar, be low in carbohydrates, gluten-free, authentic…”
He also sees further growth in the “low-and-no, white wine and Prosecco categories.”
For more insights into how to appeal to this demographic, listen to Pauline Vicard’s interview with Wine Institute’s Honore Comfort, who discusses significant new research into this very thing.
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4. Another entry into the ‘better for you’ category
In the past five years, some in the US wine trade have tried to do exactly as McMillan suggests, launching the so-called ‘better for you’ category, where producers emphasise lower calorie or sugar content.
But wine that’s good for your skin? That’s the implied promise of a new Australian wine: “Pure Glow — Marine Collagen Infused Rosé.” Created by the Watkins Wine Group and designed by Parallax Designs, the wine is also “24% lighter in alcohol than the average South Australian rosé” at just 9.5% abv.
Collagen is a protein found in connective tissue, and it keeps your face fresh; the amount of collagen falls as we age, leading to sagging necks and wrinkled skin. Although the website doesn’t say so — making health claims about wine is, of course, illegal — the female consumers who are the likely target group may well believe that consuming a collagen-infused wine could be good for the complexion.
This isn’t the first time this has been tried. There’s a company called PureWild Co. in the USA, which not only infuses wines with collagen, but also a range of other drinks and supplements. PureWild is also careful not to make any claims about their collagen-infused wines.
Which is good, because the amount of collagen that can be added to a bottle of wine is unlikely to improve the skin. For a start, alcohol is dehydrating. Second, as authors from the Harvard Medical School wrote: “Currently, no medical evidence supports marketing claims that collagen supplements or drinks can improve hair growth, shine, volume, and thickness.”
Best to enjoy that wine by alternating with glasses of water.
5. A good reason to do an early spring clean
Have you been putting off clearing out your attic or garage? Maybe this story from Smithosian magazine will motivate you to start.
An eagle-eyed antiques collector spotted an interesting looking painting at a garage sale in Minnesota, and bought it for less than $50. The painting has just been verified as a long-lost Van Gogh.
The moral of the story being, don’t throw anything out until you know for sure it’s worthless. (If you find any wines in weird old hand-blown bottles, let Areni know and we’ll take them off your hands.)